Aligning the components of a Borla S-Type cat-back exhaust system

Borla S-Type Exhaust Installation Guide: Your Step-by-Step Upgrade

Ever been so close to that perfect exhaust sound you can almost hear it, but the installation process holds you back?

Swapping your stock exhaust for a Borla S-Type is one of the most popular upgrades for enthusiasts seeking a deep, aggressive tone without the dreaded highway drone. While professional installation is always an option, doing it yourself is a rewarding project that connects you to your machine. This comprehensive guide walks you through the entire process, from the first tool in your hand to the first satisfying roar from your tailpipe.

In short: Installing a Borla S-Type cat-back exhaust system is a moderate-difficulty DIY project that typically takes around 4 hours with basic tools and a helper. The key is meticulous preparation, careful fitting of all components before tightening, and a crucial final check for leaks. Patience and safety are your best tools.

Key Takeaways

  • Safety First & Foremost: Never work on a hot exhaust. Allow the car to cool for at least an hour. Always use proper jack stands (never just a jack) and wear eye protection.
  • Patience with Old Hardware: Rusty bolts are the biggest hurdle. Liberally apply a penetrating lubricant and let it soak well before attempting removal.
  • Fit, Then Tighten: The golden rule. Assemble the entire system loosely, check for perfect alignment and clearance, then torque all clamps and bolts to spec.
  • Expect a Break-In Period: A small amount of smoke and odor during the first start-up is normal, caused by the protective coating burning off the new pipes.

Before You Begin: Tools, Prep, and Mindset

Ready to get your hands dirty but unsure where to start? Proper preparation separates a smooth, successful install from a frustrating weekend.

Essential Tools & Gear

You’ll likely have most of these in your garage:

  • Basic Hand Tools: 3/8″ drive ratchet, extensions, a 10mm socket, and a Torx socket set (sizes vary by vehicle).
  • Specialty Items: A pry bar for persuading stubborn rubber hangers and a reliable can of penetrating lubricant.
  • Safety Equipment: Safety glasses are non-negotiable. Sturdy gloves and reliable jack stands are also critical.
  • A Helper: Borla strongly recommends two people for this job due to the weight, length of parts, and risk of injury.

Pre-Installation Checklist

  1. Vehicle Verification: Double and triple-check that your specific Borla S-Type part number is designed for your exact year, make, model, engine, and cab/bed configuration.
  2. Parts Inventory: Unbox everything and compare each piece against the provided bill of materials. Do this before the car is in the air.
  3. Workspace Setup: Ensure you have a flat, solid surface and enough room to maneuver long exhaust sections. Have a cardboard sheet ready to lay parts on.

Step-by-Step Installation Guide

Follow these steps methodically. Rushing is the enemy of a leak-free, rattle-free install.

Step 1: Safely Raise the Vehicle and Remove the Old Exhaust

Crucial Safety Reminder: “Never work on a hot exhaust system. Serious injury in the form of burns can resultâ€Ļ Always wear eye protection when working under any vehicle.”

  1. With the car cold, lift it securely using a hydraulic lift or proper jack stands placed on solid frame points.
  2. Soak all factory exhaust fasteners, hangers, and rubber isolators with penetrating lubricant. Give it 15-20 minutes to work.
  3. Cut the factory pipe. Following the instructions, you’ll typically cut the original exhaust between the muffler and a crossmember to remove it in sections.
  4. Unbolt the flange connecting the mid-pipe to the catalytic converter and carefully work the entire old system free from its rubber hangers.

Step 2: Dry-Fit the New Borla S-Type System

This is the most important phase. Do not tighten anything yet.

  1. Start at the front. Using the original hardware, loosely attach the new front pipe assembly to the catalytic converter flange and hook its hanger into the rubber isolator.
  2. Work your way back. Slide the provided clamps over the pipe ends, then loosely fit the muffler assembly and intermediate pipes into place, engaging all hangers.
  3. Install any provided brackets, like the driver-side frame hanger mentioned in the guide.
  4. Complete the assembly by fitting the tailpipes and ensuring all hangers are seated.

Step 3: Alignment and Final Torque

  1. With the whole system held loosely in place, step back and check everything.
    • Is there consistent clearance from the frame, brake lines, and fuel tank?
    • Do the exhaust tips sit level and symmetrical at the rear bumper?
    • Gently rock the system to ensure nothing is touching.
  2. Apply provided heat shielding to any vulnerable areas like brake lines near the axle.
  3. Once perfectly aligned, begin tightening. Torque the flange bolts to 18-22 ft-lbs and the Accuseal clamps to 32-35 ft-lbs.
    • Pro Tip: When tightening clamps, ensure the opening of the clamp band is not directly over one of the slits in the pipe to prevent leaks.

Post-Installation: The Final Checks

You’re almost ready for the moment of truth.

  1. Pre-Start Inspection: Before starting the engine, do a final visual sweep. Check that all wires, hoses, brake lines, and body panels have safe clearance from the new, hot exhaust path.
  2. First Start-Up: Fire up the engine. Some initial smoke and odor is completely normal—it’s just the manufacturing coating burning off.
  3. Leak Check: Let the engine idle. Carefully (without touching the hot pipes) listen and feel around all joints for any puffing exhaust leaks. If found, let the system cool, identify the cause (often a misaligned clamp), and re-tighten.

Why Go Through the Trouble? The Borla S-Type Advantage

This isn’t just about making noise. The Borla S-Type is engineered for a specific experience. It uses mandrel-bent tubing for smooth airflow and is crafted from premium T-304 stainless steel for a lifetime of corrosion resistance. The sound profile is its signature—a deep, muscular tone under acceleration that settles into a quiet, drone-free cruise. You’re installing a permanent upgrade in performance, durability, and auditory satisfaction.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How long does the installation take?
For a first-timer with a helper, budget about 4 hours. Having the right tools and pre-soaking rusty bolts will save significant time.

Can I really do this myself without a lift?
Yes, but extra caution is needed. High-quality jack stands are mandatory. A second pair of hands is highly recommended to maneuver the long, awkward pipes.

Do I need new gaskets or hardware?
Your Borla kit should include all necessary clamps and hardware. It’s often recommended to use new factory flange gaskets for the connection to the catalytic converter for the best seal.

The tips aren’t aligned perfectly. What do I do?
Loosen the clamps on the tailpipe section (and potentially the intermediate pipes) just enough to rotate or shift them. Small adjustments at multiple points can correct major misalignment.

Why is smoke coming from my new exhaust?
Don’t panic. This is a normal burn-off of the protective oil coating applied during manufacturing. It will stop after the first few drive cycles.

What’s the single most important tip for a successful install?
Fit everything loosely first. Getting all components perfectly positioned and checking for clearance before applying final torque is the secret to a professional-quality result.

Have you installed a Borla S-Type or another cat-back system? What was your biggest challenge or best tip? Share your experience in the comments to help fellow DIYers!

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